His is a review of tow hotels: the one in which you sleep; the other in which you eat, drink, and watch the world go by. The first hotel is pretty dreary--a Titoesque relic from the good old Cold War days--spartan ill-lit, a place to hurry from. The second hotel--the ground floor where Reception nis, the restaurants, the outdoor cafe, the river running alongside the hotel, , the tree-shaded park, the people watching, the downtown bustle, and the server staff is delightful. . The kitchen is excellent (pastas, and seafood especially). the wait staff friendly, although their English is very limited. The hotel itself is a gorgeous relic of a 1880s Austro-Hungarian gilded age. I was an inadvertent guest at the hotel for 16 days while mu wife lay nearly comatose hospital with a brain injury. She survived. So did I.